Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
